The New Zealand Adventure Part 1: Christchurch, Kaikoura, & Marlborough Wine Country

With classes all wrapped up for Greg, and after saying good-bye to a lot of friends, it was time to head out on our next adventure – NEW ZEALAND. Also known as– MIDDLE-EARTH! (Yes, I am a big nerd.) We’d taken a lot of little trips, but this was one of our big splurges and I was very excited, not only because I had images of Peter Jackson’s trilogy dancing in my head, but also because I had very little idea of what to expect.

As I’ve mentioned, I haven’t had all that much experience with road trips, and I’ve also only had limited experiences with camping. Now I was about to get ten days of both. We made a decision to forgo a planned tour and to wing it in a camper van – although STA and other companies offer tours that look really great. We didn’t book anything beyond our first night’s stay and I was armed with only my Lonely Planet, South Island.

The South Island is basically one big playground for lovers of the Great Outdoors, and similar to Australia, New Zealand is set-up to make travelling for tourists very easy, so it’s kind of the perfect place to get comfortable with camping and extended road tripping. There are info-sites everywhere and even more books and maps and pamphlets to tell you about tourist attractions, or to help you find campsites, or accommodations, or whatever. If there’s an adventure to be had outside, you can have it here, and at whatever level of intensity you want to have it. If you want to go on a hard-core multi-day hiking trip – or tramping as it’s called here—you can do that. Or, if you want to take leisurely strolls and take in the scenery, that’s cool too. We were definitely somewhere in the middle.

Ten days actually isn’t as much as it seems, so we decided to stick to only one island. It was a bit of tough to choose just one, because while the North Island has more of the cultural centers, the South Island has more of the natural wonders, and we opted on the side of nature. Even having limited ourselves to only one island, up front I would have to say that we could have used a few more days. We covered a lot of ground, but it required a lot of hustling and there were things we felt we missed out on. That said, it was an absolutely MAGICAL ten days.

Day 1

Our first day was really just a first night. We got in fairly late, but when we arrived at our hotel there was note from Sabina waiting for us to say that she was at a pub next door. She was going to be traveling in NZ as well and arrived earlier the same day. She got into Christchurch, found some hostel-mates to grab a drink with, and set out to find us. A good first night.

Our hotel in Christchurch – our only hotel for the entire trip, was great and affordable. Sadly, it appears that I lost my Lonely Planet guide with all my highlights and notes. This is actually kind of a heartbreaking realization, because that book and I grew very close over these 10 days. Oh well.

Day 2

It is really surprising how long camping prep takes. If you ever plan on taking campervan trip, be warned that setting yourself up will take like half a day.

After getting up in the morning, we took a brief walking tour of the neighborhood around our hotel and got some breakfast. Then we promptly headed to the Wicked Campervan location to pick up our van at our appointed time. Once we got our van, stocked it with food and supplies, filled it with gas, and got out of town, half the day was gone. Admittedly, we did get kind of lost getting out Christchurch, but it was pretty much the only time we got lost during the whole trip. Eventually, we did get out of the city and headed off towards the northern part of the island.

Since setting up took so long, we got hungry pretty quickly after leaving Christchurch. Luckily, Brew Moon Café was right in our path. This was great little spot with a homey vibe, fresh, tasty food, and even better beer. We opted for the Dark Side of the Moon Stout, which was dark with a rich, chocolate malt flavor. I really enjoyed it. We weren’t planning on eating out all that often, but this meal was a nice start to our voyage.

Now full of good food and beer, we set out to cover some ground in order to get to get to our target destination in the north part of the island. It’s pretty hard to get lost on the New Zealand highways, because . . . well, there aren’t very many of them. However, they also usually have two lanes and wind with the landscape, which is very, very windy. Thus, even though it may not seem like you have a long distance to travel, it might take a lot longer than you’d expect. Luckily, the landscape is also GORGEOUS, which helps a lot.

We didn’t arrive at our destination of Kaikoura until early in the evening. The positive to New Zealand in the summer is that the evenings are very, very long. The sun doesn’t go down until close to 10. The negative is that everything closes at 5, maybe 6. Perfect for getting the most out of outdoor activities, you just better take care of any vendor needs early in the day. So while we got to Kaikoura a bit late, we could still take some advantage of the area.

Kaikoura is known for it’s gorgeous vistas and marine life. These we did not get to see our first evening there, because it was extremely foggy and drizzly. Nonetheless, we took a walk on the gorgeous stony beach. This may not be the beach for lying out on, but it’s covered with these slate grey rocks -- which actually made a pretty scene when set against the grey sky.

We also had the chance to make some friends.

We made some human friends too. One of the funny things about these area where road trips are popular, is that you often start to see the same people along the way. As we were scampering along the rocks on the coast, I recognized a couple that were picking up their van at the same time as we did in Christchurch. We started and they wound camping at our camp ground, which was really nice. Having people to share a drink and conversation with made the cold, wet evening a lot more pleasant.

Day 3

The weather on day three was considerably better – still too cloudy for whale and dolphin watching (but what’s new, we have terrible luck at spotting these guys) but definitely nice enough to enjoy the views.

We joined our new friends, Susan and Justin (I’m not going to lie, I could have those wrong, it’s been a long time) for a tramp along the Kaikoura coastal track. It’s pretty easy path that winds near rocky coastal terrain and pastoral farmlands. You can also spot seal colonies and tons of birds.

After our hike, we all grabbed lunch at a little roadside stand that’s right on the little street that leads up to the coastal track parking lot. This place was hopping. Their special offering is crayfish. It’s pricey, but Greg and I decided to splurge and go for it. I have to say they looked better than they were; however, the green- lipped mussels were fantastic.

After lunch we said good-bye to our friends and continued on our way. Our plan had been to stop at a few wineries on way to the Marlborough region; however, we got caught by the winding roads and ended up only being able to make it one before everything closed at five – Lawson’s Dry Hills Winery.

A great big dog greets you in parking lot at Dry Hills, and pretty soon you meet his cat friend in the tasting room. Not to worry, they’re all friendly, as was the gentleman who gave us our tasting. The Marlborough region is known for its Sauvignon Blanc, and theirs was definitely good, but they also had some very good, not too sweet, Gewurztraminer and Rieslings. I think we cam away with a bottle of the Gewurz and a Pinot. Whites might be the thing here, but it was cold out and red seemed more fitting to drink in the evening.

Armed with our two lone bottles, we headed towards Picton and the Marlborough Sound to find a campsite for the evening. And who should we meet up with in Picton, but Justin and Susan again. We all found a campervan site together again. This one was right on the sound and was extremely pretty. We settled in and enjoyed the view with another campervan meal and a couple drinks.

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Here's a slide show of our time in Kaikura:

Paddy's Market

We’re making one more market stop in Sydney. In Chinatown, bordering Darling Harbour stands the giant warehouse like structure that houses Paddy’s Market and Market City. Paddy’s is basically a giant indoor flea market. As with any flea market you’ll find rows and rows of chotchkies, cheap clothes, and souvenirs.

They also have a large food section with vendors selling meats, eggs, noodles, nuts, and fresh produce. It’s not the most picturesque of market settings but you can find some good prices on fresh foods – which can be a big help in a country where almost everything has hefty price tag. If you go towards the end of a market day, you can get even better deals, as vendors try to quickly undo themselves of produces excesses and start offering take-as-is baskets for a dollar or two. However, be warned that with the deals come the crowds. Kate and I once happened to stop in at the end of weekend day and were nearly swallowed up by human riptide. While it’s almost always crowded, it’s not nearly as bad during the weekdays.

Above Paddy’s Market is Market City, a small mall with discount vendors and Asian souvenir shops. The deals aren’t quite so low, but the crowd levels are certainly aren’t as bad either.

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Yoga by the sea

One morning before we headed out on the road again, I escaped to Bondi for a class at Yoga by the Sea to counterbalance all the partying and trip-planning. They hold classes by the pools at the Bondi Icebergs Club, which boasts spectacular views of the beach that will put anyone into a relaxed holiday frame of mind.

A lot of yoga classes have calming settings, however, this one has the added feature of the soothing sounds of waves crashing just a few meters away. I have to admit that I was sad that I hadn’t made it out here earlier on our trip so as to take more advantage.

They offer sessions everyday– choose between calming Yin classes, or more energetic Yang classes. The hour-long classes are $15 and entrance to the Icebergs is $5, but students are welcome to use the saunas and fitness facilities after class is over. If you’re lucky enough to be the first to spot a whale or dolphin, the class is free.

Side Note: Getting pictures between asanas was interesting. I kept the camera at the front of my mat aimed as best as possible in different directions. When I'd flow from upward-facing dog to down dog, or when swan diving to forward fold, I'd hit the trigger button. Obviously, this kind impedes getting into a clear yogi mindset, so I wrapped up the camera pretty quickly.

Back to Sydney for a beat

After the Great Ocean Road, we headed back to Sydney for about a week. It was time for Greg to finish up the quarter. With classes over it also meant that a lot of people, including us, were planning to use most of the rest of December to travel. It also meant lots gatherings to celebrate the end of classes and also that it was time to say goodbye to a lot of friends. Good times mixed with a little sadness.

Here is a quick collage of memories:

The Great Ocean Road

I don’t have all that much experience with road trips, as I have mentioned, but the Great Ocean Road has to be near the top of the all-time hits list. It’s so pretty, that I think it’s possible you run the risk of becoming complacent to beauty. The good thing is that if you get bored of one type of pretty, you can switch up the scenery constantly to keep things different. If you get tired of the gorgeous seascapes, swing inland and hike in a rainforest for a while. Spot a koala or some kangaroos. If you need a break from the outdoors, stop into one of the many wineries for some tastings, or at berry farm, or at creamery. There are loads of things to do.

The joy is in stopping constantly and randomly in all kinds of different places. My friend Alex did the road trip with a group of guys from the program, and for some reason the guys did not want to stop. They had a few predetermined stops they wanted to make, then just drive, drive, drive, the rest of the time. What’s the point? ! She ended up a little disappointed.

Now, I have to admit that enjoyment of this trip is largely dependent on good weather. We were graced with beautiful, crisp days almost the entire time. Just the weekend before we hit the road, Sabina did the trip, but her group got cold, rainy days. Needless, to say they did not have as amazing a time.

So those are the two rules: Stop constantly and pray for clear days.
We already know we got lucky with the weather, and Matt and Laura are fantastic travel buddies, open to pretty much anything and we hit the ground running from day one.

Day 1

It took a little while to get out Melbourne, but once we’d covered some ground the stops began with some lovely beaches – including Bells Beach, where Bodhi (Patrick Swayze) went out for his final set during the 50-year storm in Point Break.

The beach also always provides a lovely backdrop for a picnic. The wind threatened to blow our drinks away, but it was beautiful scenery to enjoy as we ate our loot from the Grand Victoria Market.

That afternoon, we swung inland for a hike at Erskine Falls. There is one negative to this little hike. To reach the falls you have wind down a long staircase. The falls are beautiful, it just sucks that you have to the steep hike up the stairs after the fact. It’s nice when the hard stuff come first, while you still have the promise of a view as a carrot propelling you forward. But what can you do? It would be a little difficult to go around changing the topography, and in all, the trek’s well worth it.

Before the day was out, we even got to glimpse a little bit of wildlife.

It's tough to see, but this spiky little guy is an echidna.

Day 2

The morning of our second day was all about crazy rock formations. For good stretch of the Great Ocean Road, you get display after display of the power of nature. Winds have carved the rocks along the coast into a host of different gorgeous pillars and other formations.

The best known of these natural attractions is probably the Twelve Apostles. These are a collection of limestone stacks that have been eroded into pillars. There are actually only 8 apostles left. (According to Wikipedia, there were only ever 9 to begin with) Because they’re all so close together, it makes for a very impressive vista.

The Apostles are the most famous attraction, but there’s a whole lot more to see. We spent the biggest chunk of time at the Bay of Islands. The Islands are a lot like the Apostles, but the nice thing about this park is that you can hike all around it to get views of the islands from lots of different vantage points. There are outlets down to the beach so that you can look up at the pillars from below as well. I glimpsed a kayaker on the water, and that seemed like an amazing way to see them. If I ever get the chance to go back, I definitely would find a way to get out on the water.

No water sports this time, but we found a way to catch some air. We came across the viewing platform with a wooden rail. We spent about an hour leaping off the rail taking “flying” pictures. I highly doubt this is encouraged, but we had a lot of fun.

London Bridge and The Grotto were our other two morning stops. London Bridge used to be a long, natural pier onto the ocean. However, in 1990 part of the bridge collapsed, turning the bridge into an Arch. The kicker was that, unfortunately, a couple of tourists were hiking at the far end of the bridge when the middle dropped out. Luckily, everyone was safe and no one ended up in the water.

The Grotto was quick visit, but arguably the most charming. So pretty and definitely worth stopping!

Alright, enough rock formations. Time to eat and drink. We swung inland again to try some of the regional delights. First up, Apostle Whey Cheese – a quaint little spot with very friendly staff. If you get the timing right, you can watch the cheese making process. They’d wrapped up the demonstrations by the time we got there, but we did have delicious cheese tasting.

Almost down the street, we found Heytesbury Ridge Winery. This place not only had some really interesting wines, it was extra impressive because it’s a two-person operation. It’s just a married couple, working hard to make some very nice wines. Not a bad life. I have to admit, I’m a little jealous.

This stop had an extra round fun, because as we pulled we spotted a very out of place koala scampering around the ground. Not a eucalyptus tree in sight! I guess this little guy wanted to get on the vino action.

It’s pretty uncommon to get such an active little koala. He moved so fast I couldn’t get picture before he had hidden behind a tool shed. Not a tragedy, however. We ended up having a healthy does of koala watching that day. The little stretch of road leading up to Cape Otway Lighthouse is lined with eucalyptus trees filled with the cuddly little rascals. I got a crick in my neck from staring up at them. Unsurprisingly, they’re frick’n adorable, what is surprising are the funny motor-like, rumbling sounds that emanate from their little, fuzzy bodies. But why should I keep describing, when you can just watch them in all their cuddly glory:

A note for future travelers. There are long stretches of The Great Ocean Road where there are no gas stations. The area between Port Campbell, near the Twelve Apostles and the winery, and Apollo Bay is one such stretch. We did not realize this and since we’d had a good amount of gas as we left the Port Campbell area, we didn’t think to get any. By the time we left the koalas, we were pretty out. It is only thanks to Matt’s excellent skills at using the momentum of driving on the rolling hills to conserve gas that we didn’t run out of gas in the middle of nowhere. Well done, sir!

There was one more wildlife spotting of note before the day was out. The Anglesea Golf Course is home to around 300 kangaroos. We didn’t make it here until just after dark, so I didn’t get any good pics, so I’ll borrow this one to give an idea:

Original can be found on travelpod.

Day 3

Our final day on the Great Ocean Road was all about relaxation – or, that was the plan anyways. In the morning we took the ferry from Queenscliff Harbour to Sorrento with plans to enjoy the hot baths and wineries in the area.

The first part went according to plan. We spent a couple of luxurious hours at the Peninsula Hot Springs and we all emerged feeling very relaxed, and set out to find some wineries to proceed with the second part of our plan.

Here’s where we hit a kink. Greg left the springs in such a blissful state that he left his jacket behind and didn’t realize it until we all the way to our next stop. So, we dropped Matt and Laura off to do the wine tasting, and we booked it to hot spring to get the jacket. Luckily, we got it, but by the time we made it back to the winery we were running pretty late.

Matt had to get back for an evening class and we had a plane to catch, so we zoomed back to Melbourne. In our panicked state, we made a couple of wrong turns on the freeway, but we made it back in time for Matt to make his class, and it seemed like we’d be ok for our flight. Greg sped all the way to the airport making surprisingly good time, until we hit a traffic jam in the last mile before our turn off to the airport. All we could do was sit there biting our nails. When we finally got to the airport we RAN from the car rental drop-off to our terminal. I may have even told Greg, “I’m not going to make it, just go on without me.” But I was able to go on, and just as we stepped to the check-in counter final call was announced over the loud-speaker. A harried end to an otherwise amazing trip.

Post Script. Since Returning from our Australian travels, Matt and Laura have recently gotten engaged. Much love and congratulations to this wonderful, aquatic couple!

Cap things off with Greg's photo album:

And if that's not enough, you can see the rest of mine.