Monday, September 14, 2009

Surf Report: Try and Try Again


So, you might be wondering whatever happened to the surfing. Still at it . . . or trying at least.

Early on in the surf lessons I felt I was making slow but consistent progress. In June I was going to the surf school in Huntington Beach with SB on fairly regular basis, and each time I went I made a few baby steps of progress.

Then July came. In July, we were in town for one weekend out of the entire month. First a trip to SD, then Duluth, then NYC. All wonderful trips, but no surf time. The first couple of weekends back in LA, I was eager to get back out again. However, this was not to be.

SB and I made a date to head down to HB for a practice session on the first weekend we had free. However, low and behold, SB who was also newly back from a round of traveling herself, got sick and had to cancel at the last moment. Ok, no matter, I tell myself. I'll take myself down there and practice on my own, and I'll be the super independent woman I try to pretend to be, and am every now and again. Huntington Beach is kind of a far drive, though, so Independent me had to compete with Lazy me, and with all the talking myself up going on in my head, I got a bit of a late start. I also made one wrong turn on the way down. This one wrong turn cost 30 min. just because I couldn't find a place to turn around. Finally, I make it to the beach, only to encounter a long line of cars battling their way into the beach parking area. Another 30 min. Once in, I have to deal with actually finding a spot. I had never had trouble finding spot at this beach before - granted usually we're there a little earlier-- but I had not anticipated this problem. Turns out there was some volleyball tournament or something of the sort. Another 30 minutes of driving around -- no spot was found. I had to be back in LA in another hour, so I had no choice but to turn around and head back. So much for Ms. Independent.

The next weekend we had actual surf lessons scheduled. It was my first time out in over a month, and I felt like I was starting over nearly from scratch. Additionally, SB and I got into a big argument the day before (happens all the time) and I felt all negative. I was still annoyed - with her because of our argument, and with me for losing my temper and going into bitch mode. I think the negativity was affecting me, and I had a little knot in my stomach the whole time. Whatever the problem, me and the ocean were clearly not going to be one that day. Eventually, I got out and figured I'd just enjoy the beach. I drove myself, as there was a chance I'd be meeting my friend Julian, who briefly in town that weekend. I didn't end up seeing him, but since I wasn't on any real timetable, I just wandered around. For a while, I just sat on the beach and watched the surfers. I watched a bunch of kids learning to surf. I felt a little envious of the fearless little boys -- as little boys tend to be fearless -- happy to just get out there and try anything without the slightest care for their mortality. There was one little girl getting lessons from her dad in the white water. She wasn't quite as fearless as the boys, but totally happy looking goofy falling over a hundred times over, and completely determined. I identified with her and figured that what I would have been like had I learned when I was younger and how I should still be. I ended up just walking along the beach taking it all in -- the beauty of the waves, young hotshot surfers, old time surfers with van converted specifically to fill all surfing needs. Then I went over to the main shopping and boardwalk area of HB and walked around some more. FInally, I just plopped down on a grassy area near the beach and read for a while. Maybe I didn't have a great surf day, but it was an wonderful morning.

I also pretty much decided that to get any better, I was going to have to practice more, and to do that I would need my own equipment. I bought board straps for my car and borrowed Amy's foam board. I dragged Anto out with me one day while she was with me and we went to a surf shop that was recommended to me, Action Water Sports. They were super nice and helped me find a reasonably priced suit. Actually, she said it was one of her favorite parts of the trip. The superhero appeal of the wet suit made her want one too. Now I was all equipped . . . but now my time had nearly run out!

I did have time for one more lesson though. Weeks before my mom came, shyly mentioned and interest in taking a lesson with me. I latched onto this and ran with it. Although she became more hesitant, I immediately booked a lesson for the two of us and held her to it. It was awesome. We both sucked . . . but it was awesome!



I was so proud of her for getting out there . . . even though she occasionally tried to get up an upside down board. . . I was so proud of her. I thought she was brilliant. I also now know where I get my habit of laughing hysterically whenever I fall! Seriously, one of my favorite memories ever.


So limited luck on the actual surfing aspect of surfing, but so far I've got some great memories of just the trying. Seems a good enough reason to continue. We'll see if I do better in Australia.

If I never get any better, well, at least I have a great superhero costume to wear at Halloween.

2 comments:

  1. 1. Awesome. Surfing with mom. Absolutely priceless. She's tougher than you, Mrs. Full-body Wetsuit.
    2. I totally dig your description of not getting along with the water, but for me, I find the water takes it all away from me - the anger, sadness, hangoveredness - whatever negativity I might have. This morning I was overcome with guilt on a year old subject, and after a particularly good session, I was smiling again, giving peace signs like I do to every person I pass.
    3. Glad your loving the experience. I still suck, and I live in, wait, where am I?
    4. Hi! Love you. Didn't end up going to Medellin. Decided to go south - made it to Ecuador and Peru after Bogota. It was neat. How's Mr. Full-body Wetsuit?

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  2. Hey! I kept up with your travels up until we stopped having regular internet. (I'll catch up again when I have internet I can use regularly again) Some awesome adventures in there! It made me anxious to get going on our little journey. We're in Sydney now, and so far awesome. Next order of business is to get a crap beginner's board to go with my full body wetsuit - which for the record I love b/c it keeps me toasty warm! I am a wimp when it comes to cold.

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